Saturday, February 27, 2010

The old south lives in SAVANNAH

Welcome to eternal summer. Our friends and fam in the northeast are getting pummeled by snow while we are in shorts and teeshirts in the south. Savannah was a beautiful, polite city from the start. On Monday we drove in from Athens on back roads (searching for salvation army's). We arrived in the late afternoon and did a quick drive around the city. We were overwhelmed by the cuteness! Savannah's buildings, streets, and parks are so well kept that it felt down right exotic.

We then set up camp at Skidaway Island State Park which is just 10 minutes from the city. Our new site was like a palace compared to the last one. Showers, laundry, running water and electricity on site! We were really excited for showers.






The next day we went out exploring the city. We started on River Street where you can see cool big tankers on the river and cute stores and restaurants on the land. We had to stop in River Street Sweets where we binged on homemade pralines and bear claws. While walking off those calories, we found Mrs Wilkes Dining Room. Here they serve a family style lunch of every southern dish you can imagine. Fried chicken, back eyed peas, creamed corn, and greens to name a few. I think there were bowls on that table that we never even saw!


We didn't eat for a day after that meal, honestly.

Next, we explored Colonial Park Cemetary and wandered around admiring the architecture. 

Back at Skidaway, we hiked the park trails. The sub tropical plants were really cool and the moss inspired our next installation.

GULF COAST HERE WE COME!

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Automatic for the People

Once we had had our fill of Asheville (and snow) it was time to make our way south to Georgia.   We hadn't made too many plans for GA, other than wanting to go to Savannah, so up until our last night in Asheville plans were still very much in the air.  As REM was my all-time-most-favorite-bands-ever-ever-ever in high school and college I felt it was my duty to go through Athens.

We decided to go Athens en route to Savannah and camp one night in the Oconee National Forest at the Oconee River Campground, slightly southeast of Athens.  We arrived in Athens and to our sheer delight the thermometer read 60º!!!!  We were so excited we could hardly contain ourselves - so we calmed our nerves by sipping sangria at a restaurant's sidewalk patio.  

 As far as quintessential college towns go Athens is pretty darn cute, not to mention fun.  (Did I mention it was 60º?)  It has a funky little artist edge to it, and some beautiful architecture.  We were enjoying ourselves so we decided to stay two nights in Athens.

We made our way to the Campground to discover that we were the only ones camping there and it was a barebones - no running water, just an outhouse (what do you expect for $5?).  I am not sure of the rules of National Forests but there seemed to be a lot of people using the river to hunt water fowl.  Is that allowed?  During our first night of camping I learned I have seen way too many horror movies: our evening by the campfire was fun, but I was vaguely convinced that there was a maniac in the woods (most likely wearing a mask of sorts).   The campground is right next to a big farm and we learned that cows make some dramatic nocturnal moos.

We awoke the next morning to 32º weather (luckily we have cold weather sleeping bags) so we decided a leisurely camp site breakfast was out and it was back to Athens to warm up at a restaurant.    We had breakfast at the Five Star Day Cafe .  Coffee was a little pricey but the food was good! I had their version of southern, vegetarian eggs benedict: poached eggs over friend green tomatoes and biscuits with white gravy.  Damn, it was good.   Sean wanted to go to the local Methodist church's Sunday service so that was our first stop after breakfast.  The service was nice, the church was pretty and the people were welcoming.    We then split up for the day: I continued exploring the city while Sean went out to photograph the country.  After that we headed back to the Oconee River where I took Nashy on a hike up the river.  Nash enjoyed the hike.

A man down at the landing told us the river had flooded a couple of weeks ago do to heavy rain and the trail along the river was muddy and somewhat washed out.  It was a very surreal looking landscape - lots of debris and every thing was covered in mud, also you could make out the flood line about five feet up on all the trees and bushes.   There is a ghost town on the river too!  There was a small paper mill town that was abandoned around 1857 -  lots of decayed brick buildings, an old covered bridge and the remains of the mill - it was really beautiful.

They forecasted lots of rain that night (and low temperatures) so after dinner we packed up the tent and slept in the car -  it was pretty roomy and warm.  When the thunder and lightning downpour started around 3 am we were very happy not to be in the tent.   The rain had stopped by morning and after some coffee we said good bye to Oconee and Athens. Savannah here we come!

One more thing about Richmond...

One of our hosts/new friends in Richmond, Chelsea creates amazing jewelry and crafts (She is also the Plant Lady) and she has a site on Etsy.

CHECK IT OUT!

buy her stuff!

back to our regularly scheduled blogging....

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Asheville!

After a beautiful drive through the Blue Ridge Mountains, we arrived in Asheville. First we met Ben Levine (Rebecca's broother) and his girlfriend Lauren. The four of us had a great time and a great meal at Lauren's house. Ben let us stay at his sparse bachelors pad. It was nice having the place to ourselves and we dubbed it "the hotel".

Lauren, Ben, Geo, Sean, and Nash licking his chops!

The next day we explored downtown and were told by many people that we came at the wrong time of year. It certainly was cold. The city is filled with cool art deco buildings that hold many galleries and cute stores. Asheville's ceramics trade is very prevelant.

my favorite building

Lunch at Early Girl Eatery  

Geo's favorite landmark

In the afternoon we explored the North Carolina Arboretum. It was a very young and classic modern design. We enjoyed the bonsai'd and hedged American Beach trees and also the huge variety of Azalias.


Next we took a quick drive on the Blue Ridge Parkway and then tried to drive by the Biltmore Estate without paying to enter. We were told it was "private property" and we could not even enter the grounds. We did enjoy the "historical district" surrounding the area filled with strip malls and fast food places that were designed to look old. Weird. 

Friday, February 19, 2010

Good Times in Richmond!

Our time in Richmond was grand, we wanted to stay longer but were able to leave with the promise to ourselves that we would be back (maybe when it's a little warmer).

we were shown a good time by Chelsea and Matt, maybe too good a time... getting up and on the road on our last morning was a little tough.

Our full day in Richmond was chock full of all the local flavor and hiking we could cram in to it.   We had a slow star to our morning sipping americanos at Lamplighter Roasting Co.  I am always excited to find a great americano, so I had two (remember, we were sipping slowly...)  We walked around two neighborhoods: The Fan and Cary Town, window shopping, and totally fell for Richmond - it's a great city!

We took Nash hiking on the North bank in the James River Park.  It was a muddy hike -a few falls and such as we slid down muddy banks but it was lots of fun nonetheless.   The huge slabs of stone are quite breathtaking - we found a wonderful little inlet and decided that it was the perfect spot for our Richmond Installation!  We were drawn to all the river rocks and decided to create an Andy Goldsworthy inspired rock pattern on the giant boulder in the water.  Follow this link to see more photos and read about the installation.

Everyone suggested we check out Maymont Park - a 100 acre park on the river  - botanic gardens and mansions and all sorts of fun stuff.  Dogs aren't allowed so a sad Nash had to wait in the car but we got to explore a little (only a little because we got there 30 minutes before closing).

For dinner we went with Matt, Chelsea and their friend Amber to the Avalon Restaurant and Bar.   If anyone reading this blog happens to find themselves in Richmond and needs a place for dinner we would highly recommend this place.  They have an amazing menu and all plates can be ordered tapas style.  Between the five of us we ordered a dozen or so dishes and got to sample a lot of the menu - it was delicious.  The post dinner Jagër bombs might not have been necessary but they twisted our arms....
We forgot our camera so, sadly, we don't have any photos of all of us (and Amber's friend Devin who met us all there post dinner.... he was also the jagër bomb arm twister...not that I'm naming names...)

The next morning we grabbed a quick breakfast at 821 Café and we were on our way to Asheville.  Very grateful for the good time and the friends we made.

We also were served coffee in this mug! very fitting as I am about to turn 30 in two weeks!

x
geo

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Richmond / Belle Isle

After VA Beach we journeyed down to Richmond to stay with some new friends, Matt & Chelsea.  If everyone on our trip is as welcoming and kind as our first two stops we are in for the trip of our lives!

Everyone suggested we explore Belle Isle (which is in the James River) and that was the first thing we did upon arrival.  It was great fun -  good to get a little hiking after sitting in the car (only for 2 hours, but sill).  we didn't see the foot bridge at first and thought you had to climb the rocks across the small rapids to get to the Isle - we were wrong - but only realized half way across the rocks.  Nash didn't really dig jumping rock to rock - but he was great at it, and it was funny to watch him splay his toes and jump.



Belle Isle was awesome.




After our day hike we met up with Matt, saw some of the city and then Chelsea made us hurricanes (in honor of Fat Tuesday) and we cooked a hearty meal of chicken eggplant parm and pasta with a yummy salad.  Then we went out and saw some awesome live music (and had a few more hurricanes...)

we're off to explore more of the city today!
g

Virgina Beach was amazing!

We had such a wonderful time in Virginia Beach and that is due in large part to the Walsh Family!  It was a wonderful way to start our trip - they were so generous and hospitable and have such an amazing house on such beautiful land.  (a lot of superlatives, i know - but it's the truth!)  Nash wanted to stay because of all the out-door, off-leash fun.  Janice almost stowed away for the rest of the trip and we almost got Molly to come to Richmond with us - but alas, we left them all behind. Check out our art installation that we built on their property too.

Hopefully we'll be back there soon or they will come up to Brooklyn and we can show them some hospitality! You have to bring Wooshie though!

Monday, February 15, 2010

Canoe ride to Back Bay!

This morning we went out and explored the Walsh's land and decided to take their canoe and paddle out to Back Bay.  It warmed up to about 50º today - which felt wonderful.  We got pretty brave and decided to not only take my new camera but Nash as well.  The camera was in ziploc bag in a water-tight compartment (should nash flip us over) so we didn't get to photograph all the beautiful scenery and birds (ducks, cranes, herons, cardinals, etc)  but we did get some great shots!  I loved it, as did Sean and nash seemed to really enjoy being out on the water, AND he didn't succeed in flipping it over - though he did try - especially when ducks would swim by (or when we would row by decoys (nash can't tell the difference)). 

During the first leg of our trip the canoe was an ice breaker --  there was a thin layer of ice covering the surface.   we broke the ice and got to a fork -- we remembered we had been instructed as to which way we should paddle in order to get out to Back Bay but at the fork we couldn't recall which way that was.... we chose right and right was wrong.  only wrong in the sense that it didn't lead us to the bay - but it did lead us on a wonderful maze of marshes and under a bridge that we had to duck to pass.  after about 45 minutes with the inlets getting smaller with stronger ice we decided we were going the wrong way (well, i decided we were going the wrong way, sean didn't believe me...)

So we turned around and made our way back and got out to the bay.  it was a really wonderful trip - i've never canoed that much before! it was awesome and so relaxing with the sun on our skin.  should every day start with a little canoe ride? probably.  here are some photos!





geo
 cyrpess trees! 
sean and nash, rowing and looking for ducks 

more cypress trees.  if you look closely at the water you can see the ice.
"we've made it back bay! let's go this way!"

isn't my life jacket awesome?

 
i think nash may have had enough canoe ...
Goodbye Brooklyn! Yesterday we began our cross country trip. First stop: Janis's house in Virginia Beach. Here are a few things we saw along the way:
Nash and I are ready to go, wheres Geoffrey?!

Delaware Memorial Bridge (the longest twin suspension bridge)

Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge in Virginia.


Janis's house!